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Cookware for Induction
Hold a refrigerator magnet to the bottom of a pan. If it clings firmly, the pan will heat on an induction cooktop. If it slides off or barely holds, the pan will sit there cold. That one test settles most cookware questions, but the details of which pans perform well, and which merely work, are worth knowing before replacing a whole set.
The magnet test, done properly
Test the base of the pan, not the sides, since the heating happens in the flat bottom. A weak pull suggests a thin magnetic layer, which may heat slowly or unevenly. Some stainless steel pans have a magnetic outer layer bonded to a non-magnetic core, and the magnet will stick to the base but not to the walls, which is fine. Others are made of a stainless grade that is not magnetic at all, and those fail the test.
Ask a second question beyond the magnet: is the base flat? Set a ruler across the bottom, or put the pan on a counter and press down on the rim. A pan that rocks has a warped base, and it will heat unevenly and may make a buzzing sound as the gap changes.
Materials that work
- Cast iron is naturally magnetic and holds heat well. It is heavy and slow to respond to changes, but it works very well for searing and long simmers. Rough bare cast iron can scratch the glass, so lift it rather than slide it.
- Enameled cast iron works on the same principle, with a smoother base that is gentler on the glass.
- Carbon steel is magnetic, lighter than cast iron and heats quickly, which suits stir frying and omelets.
- Magnetic stainless steel is common in clad cookware, where layers of stainless surround an aluminum core to spread heat. These pans give even heat and are easy to clean.
Materials that need help or fail
Aluminum, copper, glass and ceramic cookware are not magnetic, so they do not respond to the field on their own. Some manufacturers bond a magnetic steel disc to the base of an aluminum or copper pan so that it works on induction, and those pans carry a mark saying so. Without that disc, they stay cold. An interface disc, a flat steel plate placed between the pan and the cooktop, can make a non-magnetic pan work, but it heats slowly and wastes the main benefit of induction, so it is a stopgap and not a solution.
Size and fit
The base of the pan should be close to the size of the cooking zone drawn on the glass. A pan that is much smaller than the zone may not be detected, and one that is much larger than the zone will heat in the center and stay cooler at the edges. For a range with a bridge zone, a long griddle or a rectangular pan can span two zones, if the manual allows it.
Weight matters too. Light pans respond quickly but can heat unevenly and rattle on the glass at high power. Heavy pans give steadier heat and stay quiet.
Noise and what it means
A faint hum or a high-pitched whine from cookware is normal and comes from the vibration of layers in the pan base. Pans with several layers of bonded metal tend to vibrate more than a single-piece base. A louder rattle often points to a loose handle or a lid. If the noise bothers the cook, a heavier pan or a lower power setting usually quiets it.
Care of the pans and the glass
Keep the bases clean. Burned residue on the bottom of a pan makes an uneven contact with the glass and may leave marks on the cooktop. Never put a hot pan under cold water, since it can warp the base. Dry the bottom before setting the pan on the glass, because water trapped under it will boil and splatter.
Avoid dragging cookware. Lifting and placing keeps the glass free of scratches, and a few dishcloth-covered movements will do more harm than good if grit is trapped. Use a cleaner made for glass cooktops and a soft cloth.
Buying a set or filling in gaps
Before throwing out an old set, test each piece. Many households find that half of their pans already work. Replace only what fails, and prioritize the pan used most often, which is usually a medium frying pan or a saucepan. A good starting set includes one large skillet, one saucepan with a lid, one stockpot and perhaps a cast iron pan for searing.
Look for a symbol on the base: a coil or loop drawing, or a note that says suitable for induction. If the symbol is missing, the magnet test is the final word. It also helps to read the manufacturer's care guide for temperature limits on any nonstick coating, since induction heats quickly and a pan left empty can overheat in seconds.
Pan by pan: what each does best
A heavy cast iron skillet suits steaks, cornbread and anything that wants a hard sear, and it carries stored heat through a cold piece of meat. A carbon steel pan is lighter to lift and handles eggs and vegetables once seasoned. A clad stainless saucepan keeps sauces from catching because the heat spreads evenly up the walls, while a wide stainless sauté pan with a lid handles braises. A stockpot with a thick disc base brings pasta water up quickly, but a thin base can chatter at full power, so a heavier base is worth it for the largest pot.
Pressure cookers and rice cookers that sit on a burner follow the same rule. Check the base for the induction mark, because many stovetop pressure cookers are made of aluminum and will not respond. Wok users need a flat-bottomed wok, since the round bottom of a traditional wok makes poor contact with a flat glass zone, though some cooktops offer a curved wok zone with its own matching pan.
A cooking habit that helps
Start food at a lower setting than gas habits suggest. Induction reacts quickly, and a pan preheated on high can scorch oil before the cook is ready. Add the oil, bring the pan to heat in stages, and watch for the first shimmer. Boiling a pot of water takes noticeably less time, so stay close at first until the timing is familiar.
In short, cookware for induction needs a magnetic, flat, properly sized base. Test with a magnet, replace only what fails, lift rather than slide, and let the cooktop's speed shorten the cooking time rather than catch the cook off guard.